Elie Saab — Classically Fresh

Elie Saab continues to take my breath away each season with timeless silhouettes and color palettes while keeping each piece novel with design. The entire collection flows cohesively together while also standing apart as singular pieces. It’s incredibly refreshing to see classic cuts done so well, while still being innovative.

Figure 1 | Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring Summer 2020 | Cream, gold, and silver shift dress

One of my favorite pieces from the Spring Summer 2020 collection is this mod-shift dress. Muted cream is mixed with metallic gold and silver layered with sheer material to create a neutral pallet, allowing the design to capture the audience’s focus. The decals and embroidery remind me of a renaissance princess, but the length and A-line cut beckon a 60’s vibe. This piece is a perfect example of how Elie Saab keeps a fresh perspective while incorporating classic elements — this is crucial in my eyes because understanding the fundamentals of good design can make or break your style.

For instance, let’s take a look at a piece that does not appear to be grounded in classic elements:

Figure 2 | Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring Summer 2020 | Floor length turquoise gown

This turquoise gown seems to be cut off in chunks, left to balance itself by its opposing side. The designer keeps this look equal by making an element pop out on the models shoulder (a puffed sleeve on the left shoulder) and on the right hip (the right side of the dress wraps over the right hip). These adjustments bring balance to the otherwise asymmetric look.

This look is far more contemporary compared to figure 1, in both color and design. Even though the look should theoretically feel off-balance, it’s not. The color is bright and eye-catching, making this piece even more confident and bold. Figure 2 works just as well as figure 1 because they are both grounded in a classic element (balance)!

Here are some important classic elements that I see in Elie Saab’s Spring Summer 2020 collection:

• Cohesive color
• Balanced design
• Contrasting texture
• Figure flattering (lot’s of belted designs)
• Flashing material (metals and silks)
• Intentional hemlines (whether it’s short or long, it looks correct)

This is only a short list of all the things that Elie Saab does correctly, but they are the first that come to mind when I browse this season’s haute couture collection. Because each of these designs exhibit balance, they are pleasing to the eye, whether muted or exotic in color and style.

Images taken from Elie Saab | Haute Couture Spring Summer 2020